Dawn’s early plight

I half-expected the spirit of Dashiell Hammet to visit me in my dreams last night. He didn’t, but if he had, I suspect I’d have written something like this:

Hollywood reeks of hope hanging by a thread.

I’m killing time in the hotel lobby, sitting in one of these wraparound chairs that could’ve come from Laura Petrie’s living room. A threadbare-but-good-looking black guy in his early 20s walks in, sits down next to me, says nothing for about two minutes. My first urge is immediately to find another seat. I know he’s a pan-handler and I’d just as soon avoid his pitch. But I don’t want to give the impression that I’m the kind of person who gets up when people of color sit next to me.

So the guy tells me he’s had a hard day of interviews and is fresh out of cash. I know he’s lying but part of me admires the moxie of somebody who can walk right up to a total stranger and ask for cash. He mentions “if you could just spare me 3 bucks I could go to McDonald’s.” Then he starts inflating the figure, then he admits, “well, actually I’m going to buy beer with it.” He’s charming and cunning; with all that faux frankness he no doubt has a bright future in the music business.

I say nothing till he starts to give up on me, and just as he’s getting up to leave I surprise him and give him the 3 bucks he asks for.

He’s gone into the twilight in seconds.

We’re staying in a garish new hotel around the corner from the Hollywood Walk of Fame. The stars’ names imbedded in the sidewalk have strange juxtapositions — grating TV cop Earl Holliman within 20 feet of beguiling screen legend Greta Garbo.

I’m here with a gathering of grammarians and headline writers. Most work for newspapers — an invisible, oppressed minority in our own newsrooms. We’re quiet people, prone to introspection and self-loathing. In the movie business we’d be the ones in charge of making sure all the names in the credits are spelled correctly, and that the gun introduced in the first reel shoots somebody in the third. But we’d get no credits ourselves.

We’re fish out of water in this town, for sure, but we’re safe here, in a way, because we’re not the kind of people who get mangled by the Hollywood machine. It’s easiest for us because we’ve abandoned all hope.

Well, not all hope, just the kind that keeps people hustling on these sidewalks. This town won’t give them a break, big or otherwise, but something keeps their engines running.

OK, time to stop this silliness before it catches on. It is kinda fun, though, to take on that hardboiled detective voice, contrived as it may be. But the whole town’s a contrivance, so it’s a kinda fitting.

Greetings from Tinsel Town

I’m in Hollywood till Sunday to attend the annual American Copy Editor Society convention, which will include many important discussions regarding proper comma and colon usage. I hardly consider this an efficient use of a visit to Sin City, but some sacrifices must be made for the good of one’s craft.

I realized the minute I stepped into my room that I had forgotten to bring along the cable to connect my digicam to my laptop, so there’s no telling whether I’ll be able to post pictures. But I’ll see what I can do.

One bit of coolness: the famous Hollywood sign is visible from my hotel room.

More to come as events progress.

Drive-By Truckers at The Fillmore

Patterson Hood’s singing a song that wonders who’d drive his car, listen to his tapes, play his music, after he’s thrown himself off Lookout Mountain.

His band is pounding out an ominous rhythm but his players look oddly upbeat. It’s dark, dangerous material typical of the Drive-By Truckers, who spent a good three hours Saturday night trying to deafen everybody within 20 yards of the stage at The Fillmore in San Francisco.

Hood adores his material, plainly lives to get up on a stage and share it at extreme volume. It feels so good he never stops smiling.

Even when he’s singing about suicide. Or that song about a musician who’s dying of AIDS and can’t stop now because he’s got another show to do.

The crowd eats this stuff up. I’m no different. By the end I’m shouting along to a rousing chorus of “shut your mouth and get your ass on the plane.” The plane will crash, killing the leaders of a popular rock band. We know this, we scream along anyway. After all, the song’s operative line is “living in fear’s just another way of dying before your time.”


The strange magic of the Drive-By Truckers is their ability to write murder ballads with jet-blast rhythms and piercing, rapid-fire guitar solos that make their fans feel good about the experience of hearing them. They pull it off because their songs about death are really songs about life, that is, why it’s worth living flat-out till your last breath. Sure, it’s a rock ‘n’ roll fantasy to us in the mortgage-paying masses, but the Truckers give us a few hours of escape.

The Truckers’ songs would not be mistaken for escapism, though. They’re usually about people trying to hold onto a few scraps of dignity in a world that’s given ’em the shiv. Can’t help wanting to root for people who just keep hanging in there. These aren’t always nice people, but they do have a story to tell.


The Truckers, who traveled out here from their base in Athens, Ga., have filled their records with songs about forgotten Southerners (and a few remembered ones, like George Wallace and Lynyrd Skynyrd). Hood’s voice is scratchy and hard to listen to sometimes, which deepens the effect of his stories, whether they’re about trying to get out of a town called Buttholeville or wondering why everybody in his town is coming down with cancer.

It’d be enough to have one guy in this band writing these Southern gothic songs, but the Truckers have three of ’em. One of his cohorts is a gaunt guitar ace named Mike Cooley, who’s been writing and performing with Hood for 20 years; his baritone could pass for a punked-up Merle Haggard. The other is a baby-faced, 20something guitar ace named Jason Isbell who joined the Truckers a few years ago and wrote one of their signature songs in his first week with the band.

Isbell’s song was “Decoration Day,” title cut from the band’s 2003 album. It takes the perspective of a guy whose family’s been feuding with another clan for god knows how long. His dad instructs him to beat a son of the rival family, “but don’t dare let him die.” Some kind of macho signal sending, I suppose; the payback: seeing his dad murdered on the front porch of his home. The crowd sings along, roaring, whistling and clapping out its approval at the end.

“Decoration Day” was the third song the Truckers played Saturday. It had the same lyrics, same licks, same personnel as the studio recording, but the live version seems to hit with twice the force, and not just because of it’s so loud the bass drum is inflating my windbreaker. Part of me wonders, why play such listenable songs at near-unlistenable decibel levels? But another part of me — the one that bought earplugs just in case, the one that decided 30 seconds after the music started that earplugs at this concert will be like sex with a condom — craves the ear-crunching, chest thumping bigness of the Truckers’ live show. My ears’ll be ringing for days and I’ll use those earplugs the next time I see these folks; after all, earplugs are prophylactics for the ear canals, with similar benefits.

As I’m watching the band, I’m also watching the crowd. For awhile I stand behind a tall young woman who’s head is bobbing slightly in tune with the band. Seems kind of non-committal and I wonder: how can you have a mild reaction to the Truckers? I feel like there are two choices: fleeing the premises or shaking one’s fists and booty with mad abandon.

Later, near the end of the show, I’m standing next to a guy who has no expression on his face at all. The band’s searing three-guitar attack leaves him totally unmoved. Maybe the woman I noticed before was just shy about shaking her thing in public. But this guy has no thing to shake, at least for the Truckers. What’s that about?

By the time the Truckers have finished their second set of encores, everybody in the room is flat worn out. The houselights come up and we’re thankful for the rest. It’s sort of a natural reaction to the full-tilt sound of the Truckers — for the last 90 minutes its one song after another building up to blazing crescendos, any one of which would close the show for a lesser band. But the Truckers keep on, well, driving.

I walk out of the Fillmore feeling a bit like I feel after a long, invigorating hike. Tired, a bit sore perhaps, but satistifed in the experience of getting to the end of something worth doing.

Where wetness abides

Rain? I got your rain.

Here’s the view out my office window.

It’s been like this most of the week, and it’s supposed to stay this way all
weekend. Swell.

We do have an interesting weather map, though:

As you know from watching the weather people on TV, those curved lines represent
weather fronts. Last week there was some concern all three of them would collide
and cause some kind of "perfect storm" that happens maybe three times
in a century. So far we’ve had no such excitement, just rain — drizzles, sprinkles,
downpours — that keeps on raining.

There probably won’t be any hiking pictures from this weekend … it’s just
too much work getting the mud out from between my teeth.

Stormy weather

We had a hellacious storm last night. Horizontal rain and blasting winds that were making the whole house shake. There’s nothing quite like looking into your toilet bowl and seeing the water move to and fro. And the sensation of wondering why the floor feels like it’s moving despite the absence of tequila shooters in the day’s diet.

The wind was blowing so hard that as I lay in bed trying to get to sleep despite the roar, there was always the consoling thought that if the wind knocked the house down, it’d collapse on my car, breaking my fall by about six feet. I reminded myself that this place has endured 15 years of this stuff, so it must be built to last.

The weather forecasts call for rain for most of the next week. Gonna be muddy on the hiking trails this weekend … assuming I’m nutty enough to go hiking. I expect I will be.

Presents of mine (and hers)

We woke before dawn to open presents, like two kids who’d been waiting all
year for a Barbie Dream House or a Schwinn Orange Crate five-speed bike.

Melissa tends to take on the facial expressions of one whose gifts have been
bestowed by Jesus himself, which makes for fun photography.

Not sure what this was, but Melissa was happy with it.

Floyd’s tired of all the fuss.

Burt’s Bees lip balm from her best friend Beth in Indiana.

That’s a Black and Decker laser level — good for getting pictures to hang
straight. I saw it advertised on TV last month and knew Melissa had to have
one.

Melissa needed a watch, so I went to a Web site called Blue
Nile
and found her one.

Some of my take: Bob Dylan’s "Chronicles Volume 1" and the soundtrack
to "Ray," the biopic about Ray Charles. I’ve decided his "Do
the Mess Around" is among the greatest rock ‘n’ roll songs ever made. The
Dylan book is vintage Bob: cryptic here, amazing there, maddening and enlightening.
It’s about three chapters of his life … can’t wait for him to fill in more
of the blanks. Melissa’s mom knitted the socks. The blue thing is a "hydration
bladder" to stow water in a backpack. Handy on the trail to no end.

The aftermath.